I know this has taken me a few days, but once you've read this post, you understand why it was so hard to put the experience in writing.
First, a word about the service... it was exemplary. Our head waiter, Herbert, could not have been a more consummate professional. He intuitively knew when to approach us, when to leave things alone, and when we wanted company - towards the end of our meal, we started chatting about wines, and by the end of dinner, we were exchanging our favorite late-night eateries in the East Bay.
Also, you'll note that I don't talk at all about wines, or the general atmosphere of the restaurant. This will come later in a "Part 2" post... I just can't subject you to reading this much in one sitting!
Upon our arrival, we had just a few minutes to wait, so we sat in the bar and each ordered a glass of Gosset Rosé. Our table was ready in short order, and we were escorted to our table - a 40" round set for two (side-by-side). Some people might not enjoy being seated in clear view of the "staging" area, but for us it was like dinner theatre - watching how beautifully this crew moved together was utterly entertaining.
I had pre-selected the nine-course chef's tasting menu and requested that no menus be brought to our table - I wanted C to have no clue as to what might be coming.
Generally, you'll see that there were a LOT of "Gelées", but all were handled incredibly skillfully - tiny cubes of intense flavor which really complemented what they were served with.
Also, after our amuse-bouches, we each got a different dish. I'll list mine first, and C's second.
Amuse #1:
Demitasse of Sunchoke soup. A perfect, ethereal manifestation of our new favorite winter root vegetable.
Amuse #2:
Perfectly tender, seared Nantucket Bay scallop with a deliciously savory beet reduction, and topped with Osetra caviar.
First:
Carrot Soup with Crab Ravioli & Licorice-scented Creme. Perfect because it wasn't overly sweet; I didn't sample the ravioli - I let the birthday boy have it. He said it was wonderful.
Coconut Habanero Soup with Lemongrass & Squid Tentacle was astounding in its perfection. The heat in this clarified soup built slowly, while the lemongrass and squid added a lovely textural element. WOW.
Second:
Big Fin Squid Sashimi with Masago & Fennel; Ponzu, Wasabi & Shiso Gelées. This was unique & delicious, but the texture of the squid left me hanging.
Spiny Lobster Carpaccio with Meyer Lemon Gelée & Osetra Caviar. You could barely see the paper thin slices of carpaccio on the plate. The flavors here melded so exquisitely - it was the freshest representation of the sea.
Third:
Black Bass with Celery Root, Onion, Truffle Fish Fumet. Fabulously tender, moist, and the perfect concert of flavors.
Black Cod with Salsify & Onion Jus. The crust on this fish was not to be believed. Amazingly delicious.
Fourth:
Roasted Lobster with Fennel, Celery Root, Blood Orange Gelée. This is Chef Siegel's forté. I've never had lobster so delicate, tender and sweet.
Roasted Lobster with Cabbage, Pork Belly, Sweet & Sour Sauce. I can't even speak about this dish. Lobster & pork belly. Wow.
Fifth:
Foie Gras Torchon with Sauternes Gelée, Apple Jam & Brioche Toast. I'm generally not a fan of torchons, but I adored this. It was like a rich, savory, well-flavored butter. The Sauternes gelée was amazing.
Seared Foie Gras with Huckleberries, Brioche, Apple-Black Pepper Jus. Wowza. The tart berries were the perfect foil for the oozy richness of the foie gras, while the lightly spiced jus tingled the tongue. This may be my current favorite preparation of foie gras.
Sixth:
Duck with Sancho Pepper, Tangerine Glaze, Turnips. Wow again. The sancho (which I know now is the same as Sichuan) cut through the richness of the duck, which tasted properly gamy. (My readers know that I HATE bland duck).
Squab with Bok Choy, Cardamom Dust & Sweetbreads. Things are getting better & better at this point. C, who is not usually a fan of sweetbreads, polished these off. Amazing.
Seventh:
Lamb with Gnocchi, Fromage Blanc, Wild Mushrooms & Thyme Jus. While the lamb was wonderful, and the sauce masterful... I have to admit that I thought the gnocchi didn't quite hit the level of the rest of the meal. They weren't the fluffy pillows of potato I love, but dense and chewy.
Beef Ribeye Medallion with Marrow, Wild Mushrooms & Bordelaise. I got a tiny bite of this, and it was awesome - but then, marrow is one of my favorite things in the whole world.
Eighth:
Cucumber-Lime Sorbet. One bite of this transported me to Iran, and a favorite treat of my youth, Sekanjehbeen. I'm attempting this one at home this summer.
Beet-Orange Sorbet. Let me just say that, when I met him, C thought he didn't like beets. They are now one of his favorite vegetables, and this sorbet knocked his socks off.
Ninth:
Cinnamon Buttermilk Panna Cotta. I love panna cotta. I hate cinnamon. I LOVED this panna cotta.
Beignet with Rum Raisin Ice Cream. The tiny taste I got of this was amazing. C still hasn't stopped talking about it.
Mignardises:
The candy cart was loaded with all kinds of goodies - lollipops, little (1") pistachio cupcakes, housemade raspberry marshmallows, french vanilla meringues, candied pomelo rind, jellies... we asked Herbert to select an assortment for us, and all were delightful.
