Tonight is Charshanbeh Soori, the Tuesday night preceding the Vernal Equinox (which, in case I hadn't mentioned it, is the exact moment the year turns over).
On this night (which literally means "Eve of Red Wednesday"), bonfires are lit in backyards, beaches & parks all over the world, and Persians of all ages come together to jump over the fire as we sing, "Sorkhee-eh tow az man, zardee-eh man az tow, " which means "Give me your healthy red color as you take back my sickly pallor". It's a night to enjoy the company of loved ones, and wipe the slate clean... create a tabula rasa, as it were, for the year ahead.
In the Bay Area, my favorite celebration is put on by the Persian Center in Berkeley. They always have plenty of food and music, and the spirit is incredibly jovial; there is something magical about meandering about a street filled with thousands of people who speak your language.
Food at the event includes such specialties as Ash-e Resht-e (recipe follows), kabob, Baslogh (a sweet made of cornstarch, sugar & walnuts) and, of course, lots of tea.
Ash-e Resht-e*
- 1/4 c. red kidney beans, soaked
- 1/4 c. navy beans, soaked
- 1/4 c. chickpeas, soaked
- 4 onions, finely sliced
- 3 tbsp. oil
- 2 tsp. salt
- 1/2 tsp. ground black pepper
- 1 tsp. turmeric
- 10 c. water
- 1/2 c. lentils
- 1 c. beef broth
- 1/2 c. chives or scallions, chopped
- 1/2 c. dill weed, chopped
- 1/2 c. parsley, chopped
- 1/2 c. cilantro, chopped
- 1 1/2 c. spinach, chopped
- 1/2 lb Persian noodles(Reshteh)
- 1 tbsp. flour
- 1 c. + 1 tbsp kashk (available at Persian Markets and online)
- 3 cloves garlic, crushed
- 1 tbsp. oil
- 1 tsp. dried mint
- In large pot, brown 3 onions in oil, reserving the 4th for garnish. Season with salt & pepper, and the turmeric.
- Add the water, kidney beans, navy beans and chickpeas. Cover and simmer 45 minutes.
- Add lentils and broth. Cook an additional 35 minutes, covered.
- Add the herbs, stir occasionally and cook 20 minutes or until everything is tender.
- Re-season as needed, and add a bit more water if too thick.
- Add noodles, flour and cook until noodles are done, about 10 minutes.
- Stir 2 Tbsp. of soup into the kashk to "loosen". Stir this mixture into soup (slowly, to prevent curdling).
- Soup can be made a day or two in advance; reheat just before serving, adding more water if it's too thick. Serve topped with garnish.
The garnish is simple - brown the last onion & garlic in oil over medium heat - you want a deep, rich carmelization. Remove from the heat, and stir in the mint (you might want to crush it in the palm of your hand to release the oils first). Top the soup with this mixture and the reserved tablespoon of kashk.
*This recipe is based on one from Najmieh Batmanglij's book "Food for Life". I made a few modifications, including leaving out the beets she suggests.
