In the past couple of years, I've gradually "learned" how to be a single diner without feeling awkward, and without hiding behind a book. Still, though, going to an upscale restaurant can be hit-or-miss.
Some restaurants consider single diners, especially women, bothersome and not worth the trouble. Others revel in a chance to show off their best dishes to someone who is clearly there just for the experience. Blackbird restaurant in the West Loop of Chicago elevates the latter to an whole new level.
I had called the week prior for a reservation, and when I arrived, I was asked if the bar would be to my taste, or if I preferred a table. One look at the packed restaurant told me that sitting at the bar would be the kind thing to do; had I known that smoking was allowed at the bar, I might have asked for a table, but fortunately, my meal wasn't terribly affected by the smoke.
After spending a few minutes with the menu, I asked my server (who actually turned out to be a co-owner of the restaurant) if there was anything on the entree menu that I simply couldn't miss, since I was hoping to order three appetizers instead of an entree. Donald told me the "kitchen has a way with pork belly", but asked which three apps I was looking at. Then he told me I should go ahead and stick with my original game plan.
Once I ordered, I asked them to pair a wine with each dish for me, at which point a crisp glass of Henriot champagne was poured for me. Shortly thereafter my amuse-bouche of Jerusalem Artichoke Bisque arrived. This was a lovely, silken soup which rivaled the version we had last March at the Ritz, punctuated with tender celery leaves.
Next up was Brandade Stuffed Squid ($12). Aside from stupidly burning my tongue on the first bite of steaming-hot brandade, I thoroughly enjoyed this dish. It was served with deep-fried, crunchy bits of red pepper, which I could easily become addicted to.
A lovely Charles Baur Tokay Alsace Pinot Gris ($8) came with the Sauteed Tracy Lynn's Farm Veal Sweetbreads ($13). The sweetbreads were cooked nearly rare, which was a change for me, and took some getting used to. Just when I thought I couldn't handle the rather gelatinous texture much longer, I took a bit of the accompanying pickled onions and sunchokes, and instantly understood why they were on the plate. They fabulously cut through the textural richness of the meat, without overpowering the delicate flavor.
My final dish of Crispy Confit of Wettstein Farm Suckling Pig was unbelievable. Succulent, rich and meaty, this came with a golden turnip kraut and cider gastrique. I love kraut. I love pork. I love well-made gastriques. I loved this dish.
So much so that when Donald asked how it was, I told him I was sad not to have ordered the pork belly, because I could hardly imagine what magic the kitchen worked with it. Ten minutes later, he appeared with a half-order of this seriously incredible dish. Braised Organic Pork Belly with sunchokes, brussels sprouts, dried cherries and -- get this -- GUANCIALE vinaigrette ($30, full order). Yeah. I've never had a better pork belly. End of story.
With my pork dishes, I enjoyed a really interesting J. Christopher Willamette Riesling ($10).
By this time, I was seriously full, but how could I possibly pass up dessert? Butterscotch Pot de Creme was very good. The texture was slightly curdled, but the flavor was incredible -- sweet and salty from the incorporated fleur de sel. But the real star of this dish were the large pearls of arrop, a dense, firm paste of pumpkin in grape must syrup. Really amazing, almost tobacco-like flavors. Wicked.
My meal, including the three appetizers, dessert, two glasses of wine with tax and a generous tip came to $92; it was one of the best dining experiences I've had all year, and I really can't wait to get back in May.
Blackbird Restaurant
619 W. Randolph Street
Chicago, IL
312.715.0708
Photo borrowed from Vinography.com
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