wd-50: The Gastronomie Perspective

When I read Derrick's account of dinner at wd-50, I knew it was a place we needed to try. As I read C the description of the "carrot-coconut sunnyside up" and the "Deep friend mayonnaise cube", his eyes lit up and he asked, "we're going there, right?"

We sort of knew we'd end up doing the tasting menu, but I'd overindulged just a bit the night before, and thought it would be a good idea to share a wine pairing. At first, we encountered a bit of resistance over that, and later, our very sweet server explained that there are people who come in and order a pairing to share, and suck down the wine before they've even taken their first bite of food, and then expect an additional pour. Seriously, people, that's just tacky.

The wine pairing here puts one wine together with every two dishes (except for a couple of the courses) and our first glass was a Cava Rosado Avinyo, NV. A bright, off-dry, slightly deeper rose bubbly, we enjoyed this very much, particularly with the paper-thin sesame flatbread service.

Our first amuse, Oyster "Pearls", pickled cucumber, borage was not my favorite dish -- in fact, I was a bit worried that we might have made a poor decision going with the tasting. Essentially, oysters were pureed and steamed in droplets the size of salmon roe or Dippin' Dots.

Next up, though, was the famed "Carrot-Coconut Sunny-side Up". Texturally and visually accurate, the flavors were sweet and gently spiced and it was fun to scoop up the "yolk" with a bit of bread.

Next up came the foie gras that Derrick was marveling over -- and it IS something to behold. Runners advise you to split open the torchon, allowing the beet consomme to pour out of the center. Served with Sake Tedorigawa "Yamahai Junmai" Silver Mountain, this dish was so insanely rich that neither C nor I was able to finish it. The candied olives that accompanied the dish, though... yea, I'd like a bag of those to snack on, thankyouverymuch.

Our next two courses were my favorite and the most fun, respectively. With them, we were poured 2003 Tocai Friuliano Collio Doc Schipetto.

First was Shrimp Canneloni, Chorizo, Thai Basil. This beautiful little package was such a pure expression of shrimp, and why shouldn't it? Even the wrapper was made of shrimp, after all. The chorizo emulsion made an interesting counterpoint to the rich brininess of the canneloni.

The second pairing was what I'm calling the "deconstructed tongue sandwich" --  paper-thin slices of cured beef tongue, those adorable fried mayo cubes, tomato molasses and onion "strudel". I loved this dish for it's whimsical nature, but it tasted wonderful, too.

Our next course was the "interactive" portion of the feast -- Cocoa Dashi, Lemon Yogurt Noodles. The yogurt came in a cute dropper bottle, and we were to squeeze it into the steaming dashi. The agar-agar in the emulsion reacted with the heat of the soup to solidify. This was fun, and while each element worked well together, the combination somehow staggered -- there was a pleasant bitterness to the yogurt on its own that was negatively accentuated by the broth. Additionally, the 2004 Agiorgitiko Notios Red Gaia from Peloponnese, Greece was an abysmally poor pairing with this dish.

Chef Dufresne was utterly redeemed by the two final savory courses and wine pairings, though.

Langoustine, Celery Root, Banana-Mustard was sublime. The shellfish was cooked gently, and until it was just warmed through, while the banana mustard was so freaking good that I have been inspired to try my hand at it for all future BLT sandwiches.

By this time, we were badly craving meat and we weren't disappointed. C's favorite dish of the night was this Duck Breast, Parsnip Ricotta, Spaghetti Squash, Black Vinegar. With this course, we were served 2004 "House Wine" The Magnificent Wine Co.

It was about this time that I asked one of our waitrons about another table's dessert -- Smoked Chocolate Ice Cream, Stout Foam -- and told that it was available only as part of the dessert tasting menus. Though saddened to hear it, I was no less excited to receive our palate cleanser.

Do you see how utterly clever Celery Sorbet, Peanut Butter Powder, Poached Raisins is? It's like the ultimate after-school snack, all grown up. That celery sorbet is a flavor that has stayed with both of us, and we promised each other we'd make a batch for summer.

Manchego Cheesecake, Foamed Pineapple, Quince was easily one of the best desserts I've had all year -- the savory, tangy manchego brought such an amazing depth to this most ubiquitous dessert, and I'm begging my favorite pastry chef to create her own version.

C's final dessert was Butternut Squash Sorbet, Pumpkin Seed Cake, Chocolate Soil, Mole, which he polished off easily, and seemed quite pleased with. Imagine my joy, though, when I got my coveted smoked chocolate dessert instead of the sorbet! The only way I can describe that ice cream is "seductive".

Over our mignardise of Martini Cotton Candy, C and I tried to put our finger on the experience at wd-50. Ultimately, it came down to food that was delicious AND intelligent, whimsical but not so precious that it was no longer fun.

wd-50
50 Clinton Street
Lower East Side, Manhattan
212.477.2900

Technorati Tags: Food | Food & Drink | Restaurant Reviews | San Francisco | New York | Manhattan | Wylie Dufresne | Iron Chef

All Photos Courtesy wd-50 Restaurant

Comments

[Lenn]

Mmmm...I'm going to re-strengthen my efforts to convince Nena that we need to check this place out. She's a little turned off by the tongue and the "weirdness" of it...but that interests me all the more!

[sam]

I am going to celebrate my 40th birthday here.
I decided a while back and then since reading several reviews recently my choice is affirmed. Did you read Roboppy's a few days ago?
I'll be with very fussy eaters (Fred, mum, sister, brother-in-law), so i think the only way I can get them in a place like this is by the power of birthday girl's choice on the actual day of my birthday. I definitely want it to be a fun and memorable time.
Then the rest of the week I can steer them to other New York classics they wont find so terrifying. That's the plan, just have to secure the booking now.

[Melissa]

I'm so glad Derrick and I didn't steer you wrong! Your overall impression is very similar to mine in that the artistic presentations and the sense of fun was so refreshing, and most importantly, was backed up by good tasting food.

p.s. I ate the tongue, too.

[chuck]

i haven't eaten @ Alinea or Moto yet, but it seems like most give the nod to WD50 in terms of an enjoyable cuisine. granted, WD50 can easily leave you wondering & disappointed; but if first-timers order things you like from the menu (and don't order the tasting menu), you will be surprised more times than not.

did you eat @ momofuku yet?

- chuck

I think what he uses in the yogurt noodles is transglutaminase...that Ajinomoto Corp. chemical that Heston Blumenthal is into. Either way I agree...the dashi doesnt really react well with any noodle in there. (We had coconut noodles) The langoustine was good...but when I ate there, my plate had a hair on it. Ew.
I think everything was interesting to eat...I just didnt think it all tasted good.
Weird that the tasting menu hasnt really changed since November....but either way, Defresne is bad ass...

[cookiecrumb]

Well, it's definitely been on my list. But. I'll go in there thinking not so much "food" as "fantasy." I'm thrilled to hear you actually adored eating there.

[Amanda]

Wow! Gorgeous looking; nice report. How are you?

[jeffj]

Holy cow...those are some of the most gorgeous food photos I've seen. Tremendous job!

[Marc Salomon]

My husband and I dined at wd~50 this past Saturday 8 Sep for my birthday, both availing ourselves of the tasting menu. Although assured by phone that the request that the entire table go for the tasting menu, upon arrival the story changed. After a bit of tension, he decided to go for the gold as well. To make up for it, they offered up a few free drinks. Touche.

They were quite flexible on food preferences and the like. Me went for a seafood concentration, he for the meat treats.

Here was what they offered up:

Squid noodles, almonds, turnips, ginger, black vinegar

-- minute amuse bouche, it was gone before it arrived

Pizza pebbles, pepperoni, shiitake

-- a row of alternating dried parts of pizza and pepperoni reduction interspersed with dried shiitake

Knot Foie - we opted out and got: Soybean gazpacho, crab, ramps,
pomegranate

http://wd-50.com/images/food4/gazpacho.jpg

Hamachi tartare, sea beans, sake lees tahini, grapefruit-shallot

-- a new offering, butterylicious hamachi, salty sea beans, asian pears in sake tahini with with spicy sweetness of the fruit shallot reduction

He: Beef Tongue, fried mayo, tomato molasses

-- a nod to the history of the Lower East Side, mayophobe me had one of the fried cubes AND LIKED IT!

Me: Grilled octopus, avocado, juniper, lychee-campari

-- chewy octopus bits over evergreen scented lychee sweetness

http://wd-50.com/images/food4/octopus.jpg

French Onion Soup, madiera, w/flatbread croutons and 3 gruyere ravioli
bound with a fragile integument.

-- the most molecularly gastronomic of the evening, the gruyere was

Surf Clam, watermelon, garlic chive, dried fermented black bean

-- a bit much on the clam, the dense, sweet watermelon and salty crunchy black bean played well together

He: Lamb Belly, black chickpea, cherried cucumber

Me: Ocean trout, fava bean, forbidden rice, rootbeer-date, lovage

-- the trout was simply divine, rich fish flesh amidst fried forbidden black rice set against dry fava beans

http://wd-50.com/images/food4/trout.jpg

Plum Sorbet wrapped in plum crisp, feta, marjoram, red wine vinegar

Fried butterscotch pudding, mango, taro ice cream smoked macadamia

-- the breaded fried butterscotch pudding was sinful, taro ice cream delicious

Soft chocolate, avocado, licorice, lime gelato

-- orgiastic

Brown butter passion fruit marshmallow

-- now i'm full.

Why doesn't San Francisco have any molecular gastronomic restaurants? I've a friend who does anarchist food hacking supper clubs, which is fun, but nothing like wd~50.