My New Favorite Restaurant -- Wood Tavern

You know how sometimes, you walk into a house or a restaurant or a bar or a cute little boutique and know, just KNOW, it's going to be your home away from home?

C and I instantly felt that way about Wood Tavern, Rebekah and Rich Wood's new place in Oakland's Rockridge district. It's just that good, and that comfortable, and that pleasant a place to go.

At a recent lazy Sunday lunch (after the most hellacious travel day possible - stay tuned for details), we shared a bottle of our favorite white wine -- Movia Ribolla ($38), which we first tried at Frasca in Boulder.

We started, as always, with their Butcher Block ($5 per item). After a few tries, we've decided that we're happiest foregoing the Fra' Mani salumis for Wood Tavern's own housemade Smoked Duck Breast and Rabbit Rillettes. The rillettes have a texture that is much finer and less overtly "fatty" than most of those I've tried; this makes me want to eat them with a spoon. My only "whine" here is that the duck breast is served in portions of three slices, which makes it difficult for two greedy bitches to share.

Next, we shared a salad of Arugula and Asparagus ($8) which the kitchen kindly split for us. Simply dressed with a light and bright lemon vinaigrette, and punctuated* with toasted almonds, paper-thin slices of fennel, and pecorino shavings, this was a perfect early Spring salad. Nothing you couldn't replicate fairly well at home, but nicely solid.

I moved on to a luscious, spicy, toothsome "Sugo & Shells"  ($16). Their lamb sugo is already the stuff of legend, and with good reason. It's one of those dishes which works on a warm day, a chilly evening, whenever. There's something really satisfying about a bright, piquant sauce loaded with tender and gamey lamb that actually TASTES like lamb. Even C was happy to steal a few bites, while  I cleverly used my fork to stab his other hand.

So now it gets interesting.

C is an avowed Luka's burger junkie. So much so, in fact, that in two years of nearly-monthly visits, I think I've only ever seen him order something different once. Now, this says nothing about his adventurous nature; but, it does speak VOLUMES about the quality of that burger. Luka's really does have a "perfect" hamburger.

So when he ordered the Hamburger, Add Bacon & Cheddar ($12), I was ready for a throwdown. What arrived to the table was clearly not even TRYING to compete for top honors in the "Traditional" category. It was served on a baguette, but one which had softened up nicely (nothing like destroying the roof of your mouth on hard, crusty bread) and the meat was juicy,  flavorful and seasoned well. The fries were "OK", but nothing that would compel me to order them separately, the way we do at Luka's and some other places.

But.

Oh, heaven the pickles. Thick disks of crunchy, tart, salty, slightly sweet, and deliciously spiced pickle. Pickles so good that, when C shared his last one, I felt incredibly guilty about that earlier stabbing incident. Where do I find pickles like this???

After all this, we were both quite full, but managed to make room in our bellies for a lovely Panna Cotta with Strawberry Salad and Granita and Creme Caramel Profiteroles (both $7). Both were very, very good -- better, in fact, than what I expect from a restaurant that is barely cutting its teeth, and which doesn't (as far as I know) have a dedicated pastry chef.

So, clearly, we loved the food. But what is it that brings us back over and over again? What is it that has us making reservations for our next meal before we pay even our bill?

It's that (seemingly) elusive combination of food and ambience, space and service. I'm not all crazy into the Feng Shui thing, but I can tell you that whatever the Woods did, walking into the Tavern feels like stepping into a beautiful but cozy living room. They walk the room, checking on tables, smiling, and making sure people waiting for a table have a drink to tide them over. They are the ultimate hosts, and you can tell that they adore what they do.

*Don't you hate it when people use $5 words completely out of context? Me too.

Wood Tavern
6317 College Avenue
Oakland, CA
510.654.6607

Tags: Food, Wine, Food & Drink, San Francisco, Oakland, Wood Tavern, Restaurants

Comments

[Ian]

>Where do I find pickles like this???

You make 'em.

Your description sounds uncannily like the refrigerator pickles I make myself every Summer. It is so easy to make remarkable pickles. I just don't understand all the epicurians out there on a quest for the best pickle they can find on a supermarket shelf. Do a web search on "refigerator pickles", triangulate a few recipes, adjust for quantity, and find a special ingredient to make them your own, like extra garlic, red bell pepper, and a little malt vinegar...

[Amanda B]

Oooh, when can i meet you there after work? Shall we soon?

[Melissa]

I can always count on you to scope out the new places 'round here. I read a ton of buzz pre-opening for Wood Tavern, but now that I know you two like it, I'm very excited to try it. I think all I need to say to Derrick to convince him to go is "duck breast & rabbit rillette". ;-)

Heh, I'm with Ian. Next time Derrick puts together a gallon jar of pickles, I'll save you some. He got into pickling after reading Quick Pickles by Chris Schlesinger & Dan George.

And I'm with C on Luka's burger. It is just so good. The rest of the menu tempts me mightily, but I often can't resist the burger.

[C]

First, I'd like to state for the record, that aside from the self-serving aspect of it all (I believe that my photos DO in fact ADD to the aesthetics of your blog), you should keep dating this “C”, as the quality of your posts (albeit a bit too infrequent for my taste, but… in light of your travel schedule, you do deserve some reprieve) have gone up exponentially since his “return” (to quote Sam, “Fatemeh's back. The real Fatemeh.”).

Second, I want to emphasize your sentiment, regarding the unbelievable “energy” of that space; I cannot think of any establishment I have ever graced that made me feel so immediately comfortable and genuinely “at home”… let alone longing to return, before I’ve even departed. It truly IS extraordinary!

Third, I have not, nor ever will, purport myself to be a “math whiz”, but… this Friday, I proposition that we order 2 portions of the duck; making for a nice 3 each “share” that doesn’t require any uncouth flatware “play” at the table… lest YOU find YOURSELF “shanked” and “duckless”.

Oh, and once you’ve been bested by my “shivery”, I’ll most certainly abscond w/ the Ribolla too… HA!

;)

Last, but certainly not least, I am going to go out on a limb here, and tell the WHOLE WORLD(WIDE INTERWEB OF FREEDOM) just HOW glad I am to have my (very) best friend and the (absolute) love of my life, back in MY life; as there are few pleasures in the world GREATER than “dining” with YOU my sweet! I am looking ever forward to many, many, many more…

I love you!

C

\\Yeah, yeah… that “C”!

[jaleh]

Today is just a great day!
Both of you are back:o)
I have been missing you so much. I hope you will start posting regularly, PLEASE.

[Derrick Schneider]

Boy, C, talk about a tear-jerking comment. Must be the vinegar in my pickles. *sniff*

Yes, I recommend Quick Pickles. I've never had a combo that didn't work from that book, which was written by the Pickle Chef at East Coast Grill in Boston. And of course, I'm more eager about them than ever thanks to some really good red wine vinegar in the house :)

I long for the day when I have room and conditions for real, fermented pickles, but for now the refrigerator pickles are a great substitute.

[sam]

Phew. Here I come to comment, and find I have already been quoted in the comments. Ms B and you can do it after work, but I plan on joining you for a Sunday lunch there one of these days. You really made me want to.

[Cindy]

Oh, this is reading like a fairy tale (with happy ending and all). I like happy endings! I don't know either one of you (obviously) but I'm glad you and "C" are working it out and back together. :) It's so wonderful to be with the love of your life!

[Fatemeh]

You guys are the best!

Refrigerator pickles, you say? I will be attempting those in short order, then. Hmmmm... star anise.

[Ace]

Thank you so much for your review! Our neighborhood restaurant is Frascati, which you probably know is Rich and Rebekah's old restaurant. It's now run by their friend John, with a lot of the same staff and similar food (for example, Frascati also has a charcuterie plate served on a cutting board that usually features rillettes, among other meats). We feel exactly the way about it that you feel about Wood Tavern. What a lovely way to put it - it really does feel homey. It's great to know we now have a "home" in Oakland too, the next time we're over there at dinner time.

[Fatemeh]

PS, Mel -- I MISS you guys!!!

Seems to me a dinner at Wood Tavern would be a loverly way to catch up!

[shuna fish lydon]

F & C,

It looks like a lot of the sentiment has been expressed.
But I'll say this-- the expression in your voice is so visceral, even on the flat internet page. Your joy is buoyant and C's comment makes the whole package that much sweeter. The review and the photos? well that is just pure opulence. Of course I noticed, but moreover I'm happy alongside your happiness.

I think it's time indeed for a food blogger east bay restaurant eat outing. I hope I'm around for the sam, ab, f dinner at this place!

[CR]

This place was awful when we went - oversalted each dish, and were lighthanded in the cheese/charcuterie plate. Dessert was the only decent thing- that and the cocktails...

[allisonmuir]

I recently had a late lunch here, and we felt welcomed even though we arrived at the late-late end of lunch. Having spent a couple of years working at "Stars" in the late 80's with Jeremiah Tower and Mark Franz as chef, I was astounded how much the literally effervescent energy of Wood Tavern almost replicated that of Stars at the height of its appeal. Similarly, I just Thanksgiving-ed at Nick's Cove (Tomales Bay) with Pat Kuleto and Mark Franz at the helm -- and I can say that Wood Tavern offered atmosphere and service that gives Nick's Cove quite the run for its money. In comparing WT to Stars, the one note I would change, though, would be to shift from the red-carpet sensibility to a sense of comfortable-glamour, as other comments have mentioned.

I ordered the pulled-pork sandwich, my companion had the portabello mushroom sandwich. Each arrived served on french roll perfectly crunchy but not difficult to eat! The pulled pork was just a bit on the salty side, but the lovely whiskey-based tangy sauce holding the pork together made up for that. And - plenty of pork made the sandwich one in which even the most hungry could find true satisfaction. My companion found the portabello mushroom sandwich equally well-balanced, and could only finish one-half. Each arrived with a small ramekin of lightly-vinegared slaw, not too cloying sweet, it seemed a good companion for slight sweetness found in the pork itself.

The service was immediately friendly, highly professional, and almost (dare I say it??) charming.

I am not one to gush, but I too could have whisked out my planner right then and there to schedule my next reservation. I did make a mental note, though, to upgrade a couple other favorite spots to this one, instead.

A surprisingly good show for this new-ish entry on the food scene.

Four stars from me, pending yet another visit to check out the dinner experience and wine-list offerings.